An Insider’s Guide to Johannesburg: Where to Stay, Eat, Drink and Explore
Observer · · g993800
Too many travelers rush through Joburg on their way to safari. Here's why South Africa's largest city deserves a place on your itinerary.
Let’s start with the obvious: Johannesburg, South Africa’s largest and most populous city, doesn’t have the best reputation. In reality, however, like most metropolises, safety comes down to common sense and sticking to residential and commercial neighborhoods like Rosebank, Sandton and Parkhurst. The city’s public image is one reason too many travelers make the mistake of breezing through the City of Gold on their way to safari. Those who linger are bound to discover one of Africa’s most exciting destinations for art, design and food. As someone who lives in Cape Town for part of the year, I find a new reason to extend my stay every time I have the chance to return to Joburg, falling in love with the city’s creative energy, world-class restaurants and park-like neighborhoods.
Despite its relative youth—Joburg was founded in 1886 following the discovery of gold—the city has profoundly shaped modern South Africa. Understanding that history means engaging with its difficult legacy of apartheid and the inspiring people who fought against it. All first-time visitors should stop by the Apartheid Museum , which provides essential context for how segregation shaped daily life and its enduring impact on society. Located in Soweto, a township created in the 1930s by the apartheid government, Vilakazi Street was once home to Nobel Peace Prize winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu . Mandela House offers an intimate glimpse into Mandela’s life under apartheid, while the nearby Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum commemorates the 1976 student uprising that became a turning point in the struggle against oppression.
In recent years, Joburg has gradually evolved into one of the continent’s most exciting destinations for travelers interested in contemporary African art and design. The shift has been driven by a growing network of artists, architects and entrepreneurs who are reimagining the city from the ground up. New cultural events—including Design Week South Africa and the RMB Latitudes Art Fair —have helped draw international attention, while galleries and artist-run spaces take over former industrial buildings, such as 44 Stanley . The result is a city that feels constantly in motion, where new ideas emerge as quickly as the skyline changes.
For all its urban energy, Joburg is also unexpectedly green. Home to more than 10 million trees and over 2,000 parks, the city is often described as one of the world’s largest urban forests. In October and November, jacaranda trees blanket entire neighborhoods in purple. Back at street level, spend time on foot in leafy neighborhoods like Parkhurst and Rosebank, where heritage architecture, public art, bustling cafés and oak-lined streets reveal a city far more walkable and layered than its reputation suggests—and worth so much more than a stopover.
67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, Johannesburg, 2132, South Africa Set atop a forested ridge overlooking Johannesburg’s northern suburbs, the Four Seasons makes the most of its extraordinary setting in one of the world’s largest urban forests. Cascading gardens and a collection of 117 elegant rooms and suites with spacious terraces create a sense of calm above the bustle. Following a recent renovation, the hotel’s redesigned lobby provides the perfect gathering space for a morning coffee or pre-dinner cocktail, while the hotel’s signature restaurant, Flames —accessed by a towering glass elevator—serves South African braai with one of the city’s finest panoramas. Stop by before dinner for sunset or in October to November for views of the jacaranda trees. Life is good at the top.
36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Originally a private home, The Saxon combines residential warmth with understated luxury. In fact, the property is perhaps best known as the place where one of history’s most famous South Africans, Nelson Mandela, lived after his release from prison, following 27 years of incarceration for his anti-apartheid activism. It’s even possible to stay in the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite, where Madiba finished his autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom. Today, the 53-suite hotel, situated on 10 acres of tranquil indigenous gardens, continues its tradition of elevating the continent’s rich heritage through an impressive African art collection, one of South Africa’s most extensive wine cellars and elevated versions of classic local dishes like ostrich pastrami and milk tart at Qunu , named after Mandela’s adopted home village.
61 North St, Melrose North, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Hidden behind lush gardens in the leafy suburb of Melrose, The Peech offers a glimpse of a quieter, more intimate side of Johannesburg. What began as a 1950s family home has evolved into one of the city’s standout boutique stays, with 32 rooms and suites in freestanding garden pavilions that evoke the feeling of a private estate. Contemporary interiors pair clean lines with thoughtfully curated African arts and crafts, while two secluded pools, leafy walking paths and inviting lounges encourage guests to slow down and breathe.
17 4th Avenue, Houghton Estate, Johannesburg, 2198, South Africa Set in the posh neighborhood of Houghton, The Residence Hotel Johannesburg is an intimate retreat that feels worlds away from the city’s bustle. Its 18 lavish, individually designed suites are adorned with antique furnishings, crystal chandeliers and Persian rugs; many of the accommodations open onto private balconies that feature outdoor baths and showers. The hotel’s public spaces are just as inviting. Cozy up with a whiskey next to the fireplace, get an al fresco manicure at the rooftop Sky Spa and linger in the Piano Bar after dinner.
6 Tottenham Avenue, Melrose Estate, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Occupying a restored 1930s mansion in Rosebank, the new Park Hyatt Johannesburg brings a fresh sense of panache to Joburg’s hotel scene—what other property in the city has pet peacocks wandering the grounds? Original architectural details in the 31 rooms and suites, including high ceilings, graceful arches and verandas overlooking the pool, are paired with contemporary South African design and local artwork. The property’s restaurant, Room 32 , has become a destination in its own right for its extravagant brunch featuring beef brisket Benedict and French toast with cinnamon ice cream.
16 Viljoen Street, Lorentzville, Johannesburg, 2094, South Africa Housed in a repurposed 19th-century brutalist steam laundry, Victoria Yards has evolved into one of the city’s most exciting creative districts. Artist studios, design workshops and independent boutiques occupy the restored buildings, where visitors can browse handcrafted stationery at Pulp Paperworks , bespoke jeans at Tshepo and nature-inspired art by James Delaney . Unlike a conventional shopping district, Victoria Yards feels collaborative and constantly evolving, offering a window into Joburg’s thriving arts scene and the grassroots initiatives helping shape its future.
21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Keyes Art Mile has become the cultural heart of Rosebank, bringing together art, design, architecture and restaurants within a walkable stretch of the neighborhood. Anchored by the striking Trumpet building, the precinct is home to galleries including Africa’s oldest commercial art gallery, Everard Read , and its extension, Circa. If you’re in town on the first Thursday of the month, don’t miss Keyes Art Night, when venues stay open late for the equivalent of a block party. With an ambitious expansion underway, Keyes Art Mile continues to shape Joburg’s identity as one of Africa’s leading creative cities.
52 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, Randburg, 2196, South Africa Set inside a restored 1930s building in the suburb of Dunkeld, Magugu House is the first permanent home of South African fashion designer Thebe Magugu , whose work has helped reshape contemporary African fashion on the global stage since he became the first African to win the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2019. More than a boutique, the space combines retail with rotating exhibitions that explore the ideas behind each collection. Interiors celebrate African craftsmanship, reflecting Magugu’s storytelling and aesthetic. For visitors interested in Johannesburg’s creative scene, Magugu House offers a fascinating introduction to one of the continent’s most influential designers and the city’s growing design culture.
Houghton Dr, Houghton Estate, Johannesburg, 2198, South Africa The Wilds is one of Joburg’s most beloved green spaces, and one of its most remarkable community success stories. Once neglected, the 40-acre nature reserve has been transformed through a grassroots restoration led by artist James Delaney and local volunteers. Today, winding stone paths weave through indigenous gardens, towering yellowwoods, ponds and striking steel animal sculptures, opening onto panoramic views of the city skyline. The reserve feels surprisingly tranquil for a park in the middle of South Africa’s largest city, making it a favorite for morning walks, picnics, birdwatching and anyone seeking a quieter side of Johannesburg.
For travelers looking to understand Joburg on a deeper level, LocalPlaces offers some of the city’s most insightful walking tours. Founded by journalist Gerald Garner , the company approaches the city as a living story, weaving together its architecture, urban planning, politics and culture. The signature Understanding Johannesburg tour traces the city’s evolution from the gold rush to the present, stopping at landmarks connected to figures such as Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi while exploring neighborhoods shaped by boom, decline and renewal. It’s an engaging introduction to one of Africa’s most complex and dynamic cities.
Corner of 4th Avenue and 13th Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, 2193, South Africa Located on a cheerful corner in Parkhurst, one of Joburg’s most walkable neighborhoods, Embarc has earned its reputation as a beloved local hangout by pairing fine dining (the current head chef, Aren Pollack , worked in multiple Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe) with an unfussy, welcoming atmosphere. Nearly every dish is available in both appetizer and main portions, making it easy to build your own tasting menu. Signature plates like lamb samosas with chutney and linefish sashimi highlight South African ingredients and vary with the season.
Hyde Park Corner Shopping Centre, Jan Smuts and 6th Road, Hyde Park, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa For an authentic taste of Japan in Joburg, head to Kōl Izakhaya , where the sleek, moody dining room is centered around a robata grill and bustling sushi counter. Channeling the spirit of an upscale Tokyo izakaya, the menu ranges from tempura and yakitori to gyoza and donburi. But the undisputed highlights are meats like pork belly and wagyu steak cooked over artisan binchō-tan, a premium Japanese charcoal made from white oak. Don’t leave without trying their extensive selection of Japanese whisky.
61 North St, Melrose North, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa The Pot Luck Club might just be one of South Africa’s greatest restaurants—it’s so popular, there’s even a pop-up in London. Chef Luke Dale-Roberts ’ menu draws inspiration from Asia, encouraging diners to pass plates around the table. Longtime favorites include the restaurant’s irresistible chickpea fries, peri peri chicken and peanut butter bomb dessert, while a creative cocktail list makes this one of the city’s liveliest destinations for an evening out with friends. Following its move to the aforementioned Peech Hotel in 2025, the restaurant is better than ever in an intimate, upscale setting that suits its convivial, share-everything style.
The Bank, 26 Cradock Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Since opening in 2021, Proud Mary has become a favorite for everything from leisurely breakfasts to late-night suppers. And it’s no wonder: Inside, mid-century-inspired details like rich wood and plush banquettes create a stylish, welcoming atmosphere that buzzes all day long. Whether you’re craving falafel or a cheeseburger, the extensive menu has something for everyone. But the standout is the thoughtfully curated wine program, which champions small-batch, independent South African producers. Grab a bottle from Testalonga or Alheit and make an evening of it at the bustling central bar.
Corner of Bolton and Jan Smuts Roads, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 2193, South Africa Hidden behind an unmarked door in a Rosebank alleyway, Sin+Tax is the kind of “speakeasy” that’s become so well-known that it hardly qualifies for the category anymore—but that doesn’t mean it’s any less worth seeking out. The intimate, low-lit lounge helped put Johannesburg on the global cocktail map, earning a place among the world’s top bars thanks to its inventive, meticulously crafted drinks. Despite its international acclaim, Sin+Tax remains refreshingly unpretentious, with bartenders happy to tailor drinks to your tastes, such as the dirty Negroni with Kalamata olives. Plan to stay for several rounds.
99 Oxford Road, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 2196, South Africa Obscura blurs the line between cocktail bar and restaurant with a menu of hearty tapas-style plates, including grilled duck with babaganoush and Korean panko chicken wings. Behind the bar, acclaimed mixologist George Hunter (formerly of the aforementioned Sin+Tax) has built one of Joburg’s most creative drinks programs, balancing technical precision with playful flavors. Choose from contemporary takes on classics and rotating seasonal creations like the Funky Monkey, a mix of bourbon, blue cheese syrup, lime juice, pineapple juice and hazelnut foam.
75 Maude Street, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2031, South Africa Perched atop The Leonardo, the tallest building in South Africa, Alto234 provides a new perspective on Joburg—literally. As Africa’s highest rooftop bar, the lounge commands sweeping 360-degree views across the city’s urban canopy. Time your visit for sunset, when the skyline glows and the Magaliesberg mountain range fades into the distance. South African wines, refined small plates and inventive cocktails complement the view, but one of the bar’s most memorable touches is its limited-edition Moët Mini vending machine, which dispenses perfectly chilled bottles of Champagne at the touch of a button.