How to Experience 4 Premier Swiss Ski Resorts Aboard the Glacier Express
Observer ·
An eight-hour masterclass in alpine indulgence that connects Zermatt, Andermatt, Davos and St. Moritz—and not a single rental car in sight.
Switzerland has so many beautiful ski regions ; why limit yourself to just one? Especially when you can experience four premier destinations—Zermatt, Andermatt, St. Moritz and Davos—aboard the Glacier Express , one of the most scenic train rides in the world. Merging world-class cuisine, spectacular mountain views and easy connectivity, this is one of the most picturesque ways to discover Switzerland.
The Glacier Express takes around eight hours from Zermatt to St. Moritz (or vice versa), during which the panoramic train crosses 291 bridges, winds through 91 tunnels and climbs the 6,706-foot Oberalp Pass. En route, you’ll glimpse majestic places like the Rhine Gorge, an impressive canyon in Graubünden, and the Landwasser Viaduct, a 213-foot, six-arched curved stone bridge.
The Glacier Express is mostly taken by tourists; the panoramic windows offer an eight-hour sightseeing trip of all the most impressive views, while Swiss locals tend to take the cheaper and more frequent regional trains, though some locals will occasionally take the train for special occasions. Don’t be dissuaded by the fact that this is heavy on the tourists; it’s not gimmicky or kitschy, and remember—there’s nothing wrong (in fact, there’s much right!) with embracing some touristy fun while traveling.
Here’s everything you need to know about this one-of-a-kind alpine experience.
The Glacier Express runs year-round, aside from a maintenance break in late fall. Each season has its own appeal aboard the train: snowy peaks in winter, flower fields in spring, waterfalls in summer and golden leaves in autumn. The train’s real appeal is that it lets you see parts of Switzerland that aren’t easily accessible by car, not to mention that driving on icy, winding alpine roads can be challenging for those unfamiliar with the terrain. Additionally, Zermatt is car-free, so the train is the easiest way to get to and from the town.
If you want to have the full experience on the Glacier Express, your trip will either begin in Zermatt or St. Moritz (both are easily accessible by train from Zurich, or you could rent a car to visit smaller towns like Gruyères along the way). The full route, starting from Zermatt to St. Moritz or from St. Moritz to Zermatt, takes eight hours.
If you want to enjoy the entire Excellence Class experience, with guaranteed window seating (it’s a 1:1 seating layout) and a five-course meal paired with Swiss wines, you’ll want to book in advance—there are only 20 seats available. Seats open 93 days before your travel date. The high-end train ride experience, which starts at over $1,000, includes the aforementioned gourmet lunch, a personal welcome and concierge upon arrival, and access to the Excellence Class bar.
For those who don’t want to sit on the train for the entire eight-hour experience, it’s also possible to travel shorter distances. For example, you could venture from Zermatt to Andermatt in first or second class, but keep in mind that each seat requires a CHF 54 (about $66) reservation fee per person. A ticket on the Glacier Express requires both a train ticket and a seat reservation. The seat reservation should be purchased in advance, while the train ticket can usually be purchased closer to the travel date or even on the day itself. Passengers traveling to or from Davos can connect to the Glacier Express by taking a short local train to Filisur, where they can board the main panoramic line.
Begin your trip in Zermatt, in the shadow of the Matterhorn, Switzerland’s most recognizable mountain. Here, you can ski year-round on the Theodul Glacier at approximately 12,800 feet—if you’ve ever wanted to hit the slopes in a T-shirt, this is the place to do so. If you plan to stay here, consider one of the luxurious, cozy hotels, like The Omnia . It’s perched on a rock shelf overlooking the town, dramatically carved into the mountainside, and features 30 rooms. The property blends Swiss craft tradition with the feel of an American lodge. Chef Markian Barmettler helms the culinary program, heavily emphasizing seasonal ingredients and working with local alpine producers—dishes include alpine pike perch topped with olives and tomatoes. Another option is the 69-room historic Grand Hotel Zermatterhof , which boasts a Michelin-starred dining experience.
Now, onto the train. Board the Glacier Express in Zermatt in the morning (either 7:50 a.m. or 8:50 a.m.). If you opt for the full experience (as you should), you’ll arrive in St. Moritz after a day of postcard-worthy landscapes and some impressive onboard dining; lunch dishes could include pumpkin-chestnut soup or chicken fricassée in a morel-mushroom cream sauce. Once you reach St. Moritz, you’ll want to stay a bit—book into one of the glitzy ski town’s ultra-luxe hotels, like Badrutt’s Palace , which has been the epicenter of Swiss alpine glamour since it opened in 1896. Overlooking Lake St. Moritz, the castle-like hotel features 163 rooms and, in the winter, 11 restaurants. The Belle Époque-style Le Relais focuses on French cuisine, while La Coupole-Matsuhisa serves Japanese-Peruvian fusion.
Open since 1912, Suvretta House is another grand dame of Swiss hospitality with ballrooms, period fireplaces and cabinets of silver. Notably the only ski-in/ski-out hotel in St. Moritz, the property has a private ski lift to the Corviglia slopes, allowing you to easily step out the door and onto the slopes. The formal Grand restaurant serves international fare, while Suvretta Stube focuses on Swiss specialties. There are also two mountain restaurants, Chasellas and Trutz .
Now, if you’re not up for the eight-hour Excellence Class experience, then shorten your trip by booking first or second class and enjoy a scenic experience with panoramic windows to Andermatt. The town can be reached by the Glacier Express from both St. Moritz (three hours) and Zermatt (four and a half hours). Apart from being a picturesque village with excellent slopes, Andermatt is an Epic Pass destination, making it a worthwhile destination for seasonal ticket holders. The Chedi Andermatt is a 101-room modern take on the alpine chalet, with an Asian influence that touches the interiors, the spa and the dining.
Closer to St. Moritz, Davos is where the World Economic Forum takes place every year, but this beautiful ski town is worth a visit any time of the year. An easy offshoot on the Glacier Express (you’ll have to connect in Filisur) with unique hotels and restaurants, it’s worth skiing the Jakobshorn in the winter or paddling on Lake Davos in the summer. There’s skiing, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, but if you’re not feeling sporty, Davos is home to several noteworthy museums, including the Davos Winter Sports Museum and Davos Museum of Medicine.
AlpenGold Davos , designed by architecture firm Oikios to look like a golden pine cone lying on its side, is also nicknamed the “golden egg.” The property has 216 rooms and suites, all with balconies or terraces and floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing you to truly immerse yourself in alpine bliss. Cheese lovers will love the on-site raclette and fondue restaurant, Cheese Factory , which is located in a glass tube on the hotel’s roof.
The Glacier Express is a majestic way to see different parts of Switzerland, connecting multiple outstanding ski resorts on a single train line. Whether you book the full Excellence Class experience or take a shorter route in their first- or second-class cabins, this is a scenic and memorable way to experience the country.